The only thing better than traveling is sharing that adventure with family. For the past three weeks, we have hosted a revolving door of relatives at a mountainside villa overlooking the seaside town of Capo D’Orlando, Sicily, home of Frank’s maternal great grandparents. The ten-minute drive, up the curvy mountain road, took us to L’Aquilone, our base from which we explored the area and searched for signs of his ancestors. We ate well, drank a lot of local wine and enjoyed endless laughs around the massive dining room table.
Frank and I had a few days to settle in before the first wave of family arrived. The sleepy (in October) resort town, where everyone knows everyone, discovered fairly quickly that some new Americanos were in town. Could it have been the nine-person van squeezing through the narrow streets while residents whizzed by in tiny Fiats and Smart cars? Or was it our feeble attempt at speaking the local language, along with hand gestures and Google translate? If that wasn’t it, perhaps it was our trip to the local grocery store on our second day in . . .
Frank and I had proudly navigated exactly what we needed for the evening’s supper and, as we were paying for our groceries, the cashier asked us if the van outside was ours. We answered, “Si,” wondering why she asked until we went outside and saw the back end of a rooster and scattered feathers between our front tire and wheel well. Everyone was staring at the perplexed Americans who unwittingly “killed” a rooster. Figuring there wasn’t much we could do — Frank certainly wasn’t going to clean it out of there(!) — we slunk back inside the van and started it up. Suddenly, a man ran out waving his arms, “No morti! No morti!” Confused, I climbed back out and the rooster had disappeared. All that was left was a of couple feathers!
We picked up my mom, Frank’s aunt Jo and three of his cousins the following Sunday. They couldn’t have been easier or more enjoyable guests. We visited Aunt Jo’s relatives in San Agata before leaving her with them for the day. We also took a trip to Portacello to meet Fay and Rose’s first cousins and to see their mother’s childhood home. The extended families warmly welcomed all of us and it was interesting to view their homes and see how Sicilians live. They fed us until we were “molti chinu” (full!), which was a running theme of the Spano stay!
The Spano visit went by much too quickly and before we knew it, they were gone and we were picking up Louie, Andy, Nick and Maddie. Like myself, Frank was really looking forward to spending time with them. All had left busy schedules back home and were anxious to savor some good food and wine, relax around the pool, sightsee a bit and enjoy late nights playing sheepshead. We dropped everyone at Taormina one day, telling them we had to meet a friend in Catania for coffee. Unbeknownst to them, we went to the airport to pick up Andy’s girlfriend. The unplanned surprise was the torrential rainfall we hit along the way, turning an easy 30-minute ride into a detoured 4-hour odyssey through flooded towns. It was, however, all worthwhile to see Andy’s face when the cute girl behind the camera turned out to be someone he knew. : )
- L’Aquilone
- L’Aquilone, which means “the kite,” our home in the hills.
- L’Aquilone overlooking Capo D’Orlando
- Fig tree in our yard provided a fresh treat!
- Ten minutes of hairpin turns took us to our home in the hills
- The 9-seater van was perfect for people hauling but difficult for navigating narrow streets (and driveways!).
- The Spanos and mom were our first group of visitors.
- So happy to have the boys and Maddie in Sicily with us!
- Beach at Capo D’Orlando.
- Mount Etna dominates the skyline of eastern Sicily.
- Catania
- Nick and Maddie in Catania before heading back to LA.
- Catania
- Frank and I were detoured off the autostrade due to flooding.
- The floods and subsequent truck traffic made the streets buckle.
- “I know that girl!”
- Andy and Shannon (Taormina)
- Sicilians park every which way on the street, making you wonder if you are on a one way street or ?
- Our friend Tanina from Pasticceria Giulio. She learned English from the lady whose home we rented!
- Trinacria, symbol of Sicily
- Ceramics in San Stefano di Camastra.
- When asking for a glass of wine at restaurants, your only choices are red or white — all local, inexpensive and delicious!
- The Church of the Black Madonna at Tindari.
- The Black Madonna at Tindari.
- View from the L’aquiline pool of the Tyrrhenian Sea and the Aolian Islands.
- Coffee, the Italian way.
- A highlight of our stay at L’Aquilone were the dinners cooked by Tano, with help from his sweet wife Sara,
- Andy and Shannon took the ferry for the day to Lipari, one of the Aolian Islands.
- Island of Lipari, one of the Aolian Islands.
- Shannon loved all the cats on the island of Lipari.
- Andy cruisin’ the island of Lipari.
- The mountainous north side of the island has many tunnels for the autostrade.
- Tunnels along autostrade.
- Beachside Cefalu.
- Nick and Maddie in Cefalu.
- Cefalu sunset
- Residents gather for Mass at the hill top church for Capo D’Orlando’s annual religious procession and festival.
- Capo D’Orlando procession down the hilltop church to the church in the town.
- Capo D’Orlando procession down the hilltop church to the church in the town. Tents line the streets for the 2-day festival, which culminates with fireworks.
- Kept seeing these necrology signs along the roadways. This is how they publicize area deaths.
- Spano cousins view Spano grave in Naso.
- At Sicilian cemeteries, you will often find one or more flower vendors outside the gates.
- Grave records are not computerized but are kept in large hand written volumes.
- A Busalacchi grave in Termini Imerisi. Perhaps solved the mystery of why Frank’s dad’s middle name was Stanley?
- Crypts at Termini Imerisi cemetery.
- Community gathers at Ottobrefest, taking place in small towns all over Sicily. We attended the festival in tiny Floresta, which featured mushrooms that weekend.
- Pretty Taormina
- Taormina.
- Public gardens in Taormina.
- Best view, best place to get a cocktail in Taormina.
- Leave it to the boys to find an Irish tavern on a rainy day in Taormina!
- A wedding in Taormina.
- Beach at nearby San Gregario.
- A rainy, windy day at L’Aquilone.
- Relatives of Spano girls in Portacello.
- The feast prepared by the Spano cousins.
- Mosaics for sale in Monreale.
- Mosaic shop in Monreale.
- Monreale Cathedral near Palermo, known for its mosaics.
- Monreale Cathedral near Palermo, known for its mosaics.
- Many in Milwaukee go to the town of Portacello during their religious festival in early October. This is the statue of Mary they carry through the streets.
- A rolling Metro Market, the loud speaker announces he is in the neighborhood and residents come out to buy necessities.
- Everywhere we went the older men were hanging out on benches, in groups. Where are the women?
- This guy had love at first sight for Josephine. We kept running into him and he kept asking for her!
- Some of Aunt Jo’s family in San Agata.
- A poster in the home of relatives in Portacella. Look at the top closely . . .
- Bread shop
- Family dinner at L’Aquilone.
- Frank’s shirt was “stolen” at the health club and the manager gave him a shirt from the local basketball team. (His shirt was later found in an obscure place by the maintenance guy!)
- The first time this guy wore his new Milwaukee Bucks shirt was the same day we walked into his Capo D’Orlando store!
- Small world. This guy’s sister lives in West Allis!
- Pinecones, like those on these pillars, are a symbol of Sicilian hospitality.
Morning Rob,
Oh, I feel like I just went to Italy! What beautiful images and history of Sicily. I really enjoyed the journey through the Busalacchi family reunion. What a cemetery monument/tombstone for Frank’s family!
I can’t wait to hear all about each day, the food and your trip highlights. Are you home yet? If so, you came back at just the right time – gorgeous Indian Summer week! I’m around this afternoon if you are – XO M
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Your pictures are unbelievable!
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What a great memory. You guys are the best!! Thx for sharing.
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Robin! Dick and I just looked through all these pictures and loved every single one – even learned a few things! This just seems like the most amazing and wonderful trip yet! Plus, to have your family and boys there AND girlfriends sounds too good to be true! You make me smile and I love your darling haircut, too! Love and hugs to both of you! xxoo
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